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Handling
A textile may be more fragile than it first seems.
* Remove all jewellery or accessories that could catch on
a textile.
* To be on the safe side wear white cotton gloves. These can
be purchased at chemists and are inexpensive.
* Knowing which areas are weak will help you avoid further
problems.
* If a piece of costume is on a hanger, use the hanger to
hold it. A strong grasp of a shoulder can cause creasing or
splitting.
* If you are moving a small flat textile, you can carry it
safely by sliding a piece of clean card underneath.
* Costumes should be carried in a white sheet across the forearms.
Cleaning
It is tempting to approach cleaning antique textiles the
same way as one would modern ones but as textiles age they
need a different approach.
Even hoovering can cause further damage. The suction could
be strong enough to pull the fabric apart. Flat, sturdy textiles
may be cleaned by covering them with a microfilament net (make
sure the raw edges of the net are covered or they can catch
on the fabric) and using a vacuum cleaner on a very low power
setting. If fibres rather than dirt are coming off, stop immediately.
Any further cleaning should be discussed with a textile
conservator. Never be tempted to use boiling water or such
things as soda crystals with old textiles.
Storage
There are a number of specialist storage solutions designed
to protect textiles.
Acid-free tubes - large flat textiles are best stored face
upwards on a large tube. It is difficult to find acid-free
tubes so if you are using regular rolls find one with a large
circumference (at least the size of a coffee mug). Cover with
four or five layers of acid-free tissue. This will need to
be replaced when it starts to yellow. Plastic piping can also
be used for rollers. Make sure it is clean and the ends are
smooth.
Carefully roll the piece trying to keep it smooth. You may
need help doing this if the object is large. When finished,
cover by rolling acid-free tissue over it allowing it to extend
beyond the textile. Tie at the ends with cotton tape. If it
needs more ties, make sure the ties aren't pressing into the
textile.
Acid-free boxes - try to purchase boxes that allow textiles
to be stored without having to fold them too much, as folds
can turn into splits.
Start by lining the box with the tissue letting it extend
over the edges. This can be folded over the final layers to
keep it in place. Heavy items like beaded dresses should be
boxed rather than hung. Never use blue tissue, the dye can
rub off onto the textiles and it's acidic.
If you have to fold textiles, soften the folds by rolling
up tissue and place it inside the fold. It is also helpful
to use the tissue to pad areas (not too tightly) that may
be crushed.
Hangers - to safely hang a costume, find a sturdy hanger
that follows the shoulder shape of the garment (this is very
important). It should not extend beyond the sleeve. Avoid
wire hangers as they're not strong enough.
Cover the hanger with polyester wadding (check to see that
it is flame proof) and then with a sheet of clean white or
off-white cotton or polycotton.
General housekeeping tips
* Don't use plastic. It can attract dirt through static
electricity, develop condensation which can encourage mould
and when it chemically breaks down it can give off degradation
products.
* Coverings should be of clean white or off-white cotton or
polycotton. The best coverings are shaped like garment bags.
* Try to give textiles enough hanging space so they are not
crushed against other items.
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